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If your nighttime skincare routine feels like a circus — layering on whatever serum is trending, dabbing on a mystery mask and chasing it with a swipe of something that smells like a tropical vacation — you might assume you’re doing your skin a favor.
After all, skin repairs itself while we sleep. But according to dermatologists, more is not always more when it comes to nightly skincare, so don’t be fooled by TikTok’s 10-step routines.
“Rather than specific ingredients, I advise avoiding overly complex routines,” Ahuva Cices, MD, assistant professor at Mount Sinai with expertise in medical and aesthetic dermatology, shared with the New York Post. “Skincare doesn’t have to be so complex; less is more.”
To implement this into your skincare routine, focus on one active ingredient at a time, building out a concise routine, if desired — but no need to go overboard.
Additionally, Dr. Cices noted that layering too many products can lead to unintended interactions and worsen perioral dermatitis or rosacea. “This is particularly true for actives that can irritate the skin,” she added. “It’s not uncommon to see irritant contact dermatitis from overusing actives, especially when multiple actives are combined.”
While there isn’t a universal “forbidden” ingredient that should never touch your face at night, the real issue is whether your skin can tolerate what you’re slathering on it.
“There are no ingredients you should avoid before bed, as long as there are no known sensitivities or allergies to them,” Michele Green, MD, board-certified NYC cosmetic dermatologist with more than 25 years of experience in medical and cosmetic dermatology, told The Post. “Common skin irritants include fragrances, alcohol, parabens, phthalates and sodium lauryl sulfate.”
If you have sensitive skin, it’s best to do a patch test on the inner forearm or wrist for a few days before trying a new product on the face.
So if the goal isn’t to avoid bedtime ingredients across the board, what should you be reaching for instead? Think hydration, repair and renewal.
Adobe Stock Images Hyaluronic acid Hyaluronic acid sounds intimidating, but it is not an exfoliating acid like AHAs or BHAs. It does not resurface skin.
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which means it draws water in. It can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it one of the most effective hydrating ingredients available.
“It’s highly effective and great for hydrating the skin at night,” Dr. Green explained.
While the substance is naturally found in the body, including in the skin and joints, levels decline with age, contributing to dryness and wrinkles. When applied topically, it minimizes the look of fine lines.
It comes in different molecular weights, which affects how it hydrates the skin. Higher molecular weight molecules are larger and sit on the surface, helping to smooth and plump the outer layers, while lower molecular weight forms are smaller and can penetrate more deeply for potentially longer-lasting hydration.
When shopping, look for terms like “low molecular weight” or “multi-molecular weight” in the product description, since many brands don’t list exact numbers on the label. If you want quick surface plumping (for example, under makeup), higher molecular weight may be enough; for deeper, longer-lasting hydration, a multi-weight formula can be a better choice.
For mature skin, layered hydration at night helps minimize the look of fine lines by morning.
This affordable pick from The Ordinary uses five forms of hyaluronic acid and contains ceremides to support the skin barrier.
Containing glycans, naturally occurring compounds that provide hydration and contribute to that plump, youthful look, this hyaluronic serum is well-formulated and lightweight.
This COSRX cream delivers 3,000 ppm of hyaluronic acid and boasts a silky texture.
Adobe Stock Images Retinol and Retinoids If you are going to commit to one transformative nighttime ingredient, most dermatologists will point to this category.
“Retinol and retinoids accelerate skin cell turnover and increase collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven texture, acne scars and enlarged pores,” Dr. Green said.
For those new to retinoids or with sensitive skin, retinol products with the lowest concentration will be best. Retinoids accelerate cell turnover and support collagen production, helping with texture, fine lines and acne. Retinols tend to be gentler than retinals, adapalene (Differin Gel) or tretinoin. Bakuchiol, a plant-derived alternative, offers similar collagen-boosting benefits with less irritation and is considered safe during pregnancy.
Beginners should start using these two to three nights per week, with a pea-sized amount and moisturizer as needed.
Because some retinoids are more potent, people may be cautious about combining them with other active ingredients. Despite common myths, vitamin C and retinol can be used together.
“Vitamin C and retinol do not cancel each other out; rather, they work synergistically to improve signs of aging and rejuvenate the skin,” Green explained. “The myth stems from misconceptions about pH and retinol. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that requires a low pH to remain stable, and some believe that low pH, or high acidity, can deactivate retinol. However, research shows that retinol is not deactivated by low pH and remains effective when used with vitamin C.”
Additionally, vitamin C and tretinoin can be used together in a skincare routine.
“After cleansing the skin, patients can apply vitamin C, then tretinoin and finally a moisturizer,” Green recommended. It’s important to note that both vitamin C and tretinoin are active ingredients, and since tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid, some individuals may experience irritation.
“If skin irritation, dryness, or flaking occurs, individuals can use tretinoin less frequently, use a lower strength or switch to an over-the-counter retinol,” she noted.
This retinol cream is great for beginners, containing only 0.1% retinol, plus bakuchiol.
This eye cream uses a blend of retinol and mineral complexes to target fine lines and dark circles.
For sensitive skin, this green tea-packed formula also contains PDRN (the K-beauty hack for anti-aging), is soothing and good for all ages.
Adobe Stock Images Ceramides “Ceramides are lipids that make up 40 percent of your outer skin layer and help create your skin barrier by keeping germs out and locking moisture in,” Green explained.
As we age, ceramide levels drop, contributing to dryness and increased sensitivity. A ceramide-rich moisturizer at night helps prevent moisture loss and supports recovery.
It’s a bestseller for a reason. If you’re ever dealing with an acne flare-up or simply rough and in need of moisture, this is the lotion with more than 142,000 rave reviews.
We’ve tested the Anua product line and this is one of our favorite serums from the K-beauty brand. Its slip and hydrating factor make it a lovely option after cleansing.
Want ceramides in a self-care sheet mask form? This option from Dr. Jart+ is one you won’t want to run out of. It also has panthenol for better moisture retention.
Adobe Stock Images Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, reduces redness, regulates oil production, supports the skin barrier and softens the appearance of fine lines. It pairs well with retinol and is generally well tolerated, even by sensitive skin.
“Niacinamide is sort of a do-it-all type of ingredient, which makes it a great addition to most skincare products,” Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD, a dual board-certified dermatologist and founder of NYC’s Mudgil Dermatology PC, told The Post.
Ranked the best niacinamide serum we tested, this formula from ALPYN is hydrating, focuses on anti-aging and is calming to sensitive or irritated skin.
